Speakers - Page 3 - John Stockman (custom)'s Photos

Just a few of the speaker projects I have completed, plus a few pics of motorcycles, cats, crossover schematics and other people's speakers.

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John Stockman (custom) > Another photo, this time without the flash. I used a 1/2" round-over bit in my router for the edge treatment. The mounting holes for the driver were drilled so I could install some threaded inserts and mount the woofer with machine-thread screws. I'm using the "Hurricane" T-nuts from Parts Express, which are pressed in from the back of the baffle. I've been using these on alot of my projects, and the holding power is incredible! Not a T-nut per se, as they don't have the spikes or teeth on the flange that digs in to the surface to keep the insert from turning, instead they use small protrusions on the shaft part of the insert that goes into the mounting hole. A very ingenious idea, and I've yet to have one spin in it's hole after fastening the woofer with the machine screw.

John Stockman (custom) > A corner view so you can see the round-over on the edges.

John Stockman (custom) > It's starting to look like a real subwoofer cabinet, with 3 coats applied. I think I'll add 3 more coats; it didn't go on as thick as I expected. I found the idea on a web-site by Dave Brown, where I went to see his dB616T MTM transmission-line speakers. www.d-web.com/dbrown/speakers/speakers.htm is the URL. A visitor to the site had built a pair, and loved them. He also contributed his idea of a base he'd made, and provided some photos and a measured drawing. He painted them with spray-on truck bed liner! What a great idea! Semi-flat, textured finish, looks cool, durable...and a nice contrast with the wood veneer on the cabinet. I've used textured enamel before, just because there's alot less finishing steps involved, but I wasn't sure how the bed liner would look on a larger surface as a final finishing coat. Well, it works great, and looks good, so thank you Dan Carroll, for your excellent idea. An added benefit is the damping properties of the liner, although I have no scientific evidence to show that there's less resonance, I'm sure it helps a little. I know, overkill...

John Stockman (custom) > The final 3 coats have been applied, for a total of 6. It even looks good in person, up close. Next time I might get the liquid (in gallon containers) and use a dedicated spray gun. On surfaces this large, I could get a better application, with less coats, and less waste.

John Stockman (custom) > Another view of the final result. The truck bed liner has a real nice, textured surface. It should be durable, as well. It dries overnight to a very hard coating.

John Stockman (custom) > Rear view. This is a passive design for now, because of budget considerations, but I can easily add a subwoofer plate-amp later. The x-over is 2nd order for the sub, and 1st order to the satellites, at 90Hz. On the sub driver I used a 20mH "Super Q" inductor/series, with a 150uf electrolytic paralleled with a 6.2uf Solen (156uf total)/parallel. The satellite output uses a 220uf electrolytic by-passed with a .47uf film & foil poly cap.

John Stockman (custom) > Another view...as you can see, the truck bed liner has a nice textured finish, not quite a "flat" black. Very easy to use, as there isn't multiple steps involved like sealer, sanding, sealer, more sanding, and then final top coats (with sanding in between each coat). I can spend more time enjoying the finished product, rather than obsessing about getting the finish right!

Another photo, this time without the flash. I used a 1/2" round-over bit in my router for the edge treatment. The mounting holes for the driver were drilled so I could install some threaded inserts and mount the woofer with machine-thread screws. I'm using the "Hurricane" T-nuts from Parts Express, which are pressed in from the back of the baffle. I've been using these on alot of my projects, and the holding power is incredible! Not a T-nut per se, as they don't have the spikes or teeth on the flange that digs in to the surface to keep the insert from turning, instead they use small protrusions on the shaft part of the insert that goes into the mounting hole. A very ingenious idea, and I've yet to have one spin in it's hole after fastening the woofer with the machine screw.